Monday, June 22, 2009

DAY 1- ROME

 

At last I have landed! After a 28 hour journey, I found myself checking into a hotel directly adjacent to the Coliseum. That is just absurd. I have already fallen in love with Rome. The food, the people, the culture, the energy…it’s all quite breathtaking. I would live here in a heartbeat. Romance overflows the cobblestone streets and ancient ruins lie nonchalantly amongst the ATMs and supermarkets. The people here are beautiful. They work diligently on maintaining their appearance and representing themselves well at all times. NO ONE on the street appears casual. Everyone is sleek, confident, and pulled together.  And yes, everyone is on vespas..or walking the streets as if it were a movie set. We made friends with an incredibly handsome man (named Fabio) on the train ride from the airport in Rome to our hotel.  His eyes could just hypnotize you! Then I remembered watching ‘Taken’ and decided that going out later with him and his friends might not be in the itinerary. However, he provided excellent conversation and beautiful dialogue about Italy’s most brilliant features.  After we hauled our luggage up into our room, we met up with the others and hit the city up on foot to explore some of the life that emerges when the sun sets.  We eventually made our way to a wonderful restaurant where I had the most FANTASTIC red wine, a delicious assortment of Roman cheeses, and an incredible pasta meal. I could not have asked for better food, or for that matter, a better atmosphere. Couples, artists, families, friends…all sitting in beautiful chairs underneath the stars of Rome in an outdoor patio strung with lights and accompanied by Italian music.  Clearly, my Italian is poor and yet no one seemed to pass judgment on me.  We made friends, told stories, and enjoyed the company of all the Romans, as well as the fellow tourists. This city is the most sensual city I have ever encountered.  Every sense is stimulated—from the sights, the smells, the energy, the tastes, the art, the life, everything.  No one is in a hurry. No one is planning for the next moment…but instead just living in the current one. No one seems preoccupied with money or privacy. Making out on the streets is a hobby beloved by everyone here—even couples that appear to be celebrating perhaps their 50th wedding anniversary. I want to live more like the Romans. See, smell, taste, kiss, love, let go when needed. It doesn’t have to be more complicated than that---but we seem to make it that way.  It seems here that your profession, salary, sexuality have nothing to do with your character. Your love for life and the way you carry yourself and show you heart, that’s what seems to depict peoples’ personas. That’s a lot of analysis for a city I have only been in for about 12 hours.  I haven’t slept in at least 40 hours…but, I am too captivated STILL to sleep. Or maybe I’m just bad at sleeping. Either way.

 

 So! Tomorrow we plan on doing some more sightseeing and perhaps I will purchase my Italian phone.  Converting US dollars to Euros is even worse than I had prepared for. 

 

And although this experience is one of the most precious and beautiful ones I have had so far, it doesn’t come without a price. The long transcontinental flight, the second flight, the layover, the crying babies, the language barriers, the money loss in conversion, the confusion on trains, the stifling heat, the immeasurable amounts of walking, the misunderstood pace, all leads for a LOT of anxiety and requires extreme amounts of patience.  But if you just remind yourself that you’re going to get wherever you need to be eventually and to enjoy the change in scenery, you’re fine.

 

So, I’m fine.

 

I should sleep. Let’s see if I can. I’m going to read Chad Kultgen’s “The Lie” until I do…Goodnight! Or, Buona notte!

 

 

 

Day 2- ROME

 

It was just another morning waking up to the sights and smells of Italy, but especially the sounds. We awake in girlish excitement to throw open the shutters and feel the energy ricocheting off the ruins and throughout the vespa-filled streets. Truly a remarkable day, indeed. I purchased an Italian cell phone and got my train tickets to Bologna for tomorrow. I rode the metro. I ate the most incredible gelato (twice). I took a guided tour of the Coloseo (Coliseum). I devoured tomatoes everywhere I saw them. I drank wine of every kind and color. I ate homemade pasta made with incredible truffles. I walked more than I probably walked in New York in a week within the first six hours of the day. I went to the top of high sets of stairs and took pictures overlooking Rome. I went to the Pantheon. I visited beautiful piazzas. I went to the Capitol at sunset. I hung out at the Trevi fountain. I took a ton of pictures (of course)—many of captivating architecture and statues… I did not rest once.  In 100 degree heat with a humidity that trumps Atlanta’s, you better have your big girl pants on…it’s exhausting walking for hours and hours on end in blistering heat on cobblestone attempting to decipher a foreign language and city. It’s exhausting, but worth every sweat-filled minute.

 

I did a lot today. Tomorrow, we check out of our hotel in Rome and take a train to the apartments in Bologna. I am looking forward to REALLY unpacking and settling in. And then of course…the film festival and all of the beautiful experiences ahead.

 

It seems to be the running joke that I am seeing more action from menfolk here than I have in a long time. Outside of the Coliseum, I was walking with David and Mandy. In front of the two, I felt a pinch on my butt. I turned around thinking it was Mandy and smiled…only to see she wasn’t even in grabbing distance. Who was the culprit? A MIME HUMAN STATUE DRESSED AS CHARLIE CHAPLIN. That’s right. I got my butt pinched by a mime. I looked at him and he gave me a thumbs up before returning to his lifeless, frozen, pose. I thought this would be the last of my funny statue stories until I met a cowboy statue in a piazza across town. Not only was he a touchy cowboy statue, but when I walked away he whistled and as I turned around—he squirted water from his statue-gun on my face. I got my face squirted by a human cowboy statue. I figured my pattern would be solely eclectic statue characters until I was walking home from the café this evening. A waiter stood outside of a café inviting us in to dine at his restaurant. I politely declined in my best Italian and shuffled forward. Then, he said “You are beautiful. I kiss you now” (thick Italian accent). And he did. Right on the mouth. I kind of nicely pushed him away and said “Well..umm..yes. Ok. Goodnight” It wasn’t an invasive, pushy, violent experience...but more of a cultural norm here. One I was not prepared for completely. I made a quick escape, but it made for a giggling fest on the way home due to the sheer ridiculousness of it all.

 

Everyone here looks like a model. Construction workers, boutique owners, old people, young people, everyone. I’d like to have their fashion sense…and maybe their genes.

 

Now I arrived back to the hotel for the final night in Rome. I took a brilliant shower to scrape all the sun-packed scum off of me and it’s time to curl up to a book and see if I can sleep.

 

Goodnight.  A Domani en Bologna.

 

 

June 19, 2009: First Day in Bologna:

 

This morning we sadly checked out of our enchanting hotel in Rome and headed for the trains to ride toward Bologna. At around 6am I still could not sleep, so I finally broke down and took some sleeping pills. I caught a quick nap and then when we boarded our train (Milano Centrale) at Termini station—then BAM, I passed out! The sleeping pills had finally kicked in. I face-planted forward onto my seat tray and woke up in Bologna 3 hours later.

 

I am listening to moping music as I write this entry. But to stay on topic about my exciting adventures, I will post the reason for the moping in my personal journal. I’ll save you the grief.  Let’s just leave it at: I’m thinking a lot tonight.  Topic? Hmm…

 

Once in Bologna, we were finally able to legitimately unpack and properly settle into our apartments. They are beautiful. Our apartment has a patio that is covered in ivy meant for company and wine consumption.   Who could ask for more? Well, I guess I could ask for air conditioning. That would be nice.

 

It is blazing hot in Italy this time of year. Everyone sweats. Everyone accepts it. Flowing drops of sweat pour from strange areas you did not expect. The sides of your nose can drip sweat? Phenomenal!

 

The espresso here is nothing like anything I have ever had before in my life. The flavor, texture, etc. is incomparable to the experience offered in the states. However, it will kick you hard. I think a solo shot of espresso in Italy is adequately comparable to a hearty amount of cocaine.

 

We have been going, going, going...and going. I don’t sleep during the night so I have been yearning for a nap or a small siesta, but it does not seem to be in the cards.  It’s probably for the better considering I am forced to see and experience more. Just need to toughen up. Sleep when I’m dead as they say…or maybe just when I pass out overly medicated on a train. Anyways, the back of my leg got some painful rash, my feet are blistered and sore, I’m sunburned, sweaty, and continuously exhausted.  All of this is totally worth it though. Just had to throw in a dose of reality.

 

We found an incredible little wine café very close to the apartments. The most incredible Prosecco I have ever had. After this flavorful glass of wine, we were served aperitifs that were just as satisfactory. That particular destination has to be one of my favorites in Bologna so far, and in proximity to the apartment.

 

Bologna is architecturally astounding. Everything dates to medieval times and yet still somewhat incorporates the modern practice of Communism. It happens to be a college town as well.  Although I have a deep affection for Rome, Bologna is even better. This authentic town has little tourism and is a genuine experience of Italian life in its fullest flavors.  Piazzas filled with Italian people, couples kissing for hours on the street, street performers, fruit stands, wine bars, everything you can ask for.

There also happens to be a bar called Transylvania that is themed appropriately. Halloween lights, gothic lanterns and architecure, emocore/hardcore/eurocore dance parties themed around vampires. Mandy and I plan on checking it out sometime this week.

 

I am reading “The Lie” by Chad Kultgen alongside my film books under the recommendation of Jeremy.  I’ll update my thoughts as I find myself further in the book.

 

We ate an incredible dinner around town with everyone. After that, we wondered about town until we found the college district. The University of Bologna is the world’s oldest university and housed great minds such as St. Thomas Aquinas and Dante.  We watched some street performers, enjoyed the life of the piazza, attempted to get time in an internet café, but without luck. Because of the communist way of life here in Bologna, we have to wait until Monday to have access to the Internet. We have to apply for our Internet access to the government with our passports and such…then we are included in the pool with the rest of the communist society and are free to partake in their city’s internet.

 

It was a beautiful night. There seems to be an abundant amount of wine, pizza, pasta, and gelato. Mmm. This is okay with me.

 

If not now, not ever. Just a thought I had today. Perhaps how I think life should be lived. There will never be perfect timing, the cards won’t align themselves in your favor, and things will not slip into a comfortable and easy place. Just go for it.

 

Mandy received word from Brian today (via our lovely Italian phones) that he would be coming over to Italy to visit her while she was here. How sweet! Being the only single person on this trip is a new experience for me considering I have spent my life as a professional girlfriend.

 

Oh yeah, and I had a dream that my mom and I watched the Colbert Report for 4 hours. That was the entire dream. Pretty enjoyable, if I do say so myself.

 

Now, I may try to read and sleep and listen to some tunes. The film festival starts this upcoming weekend and but before that we are taking cinema classes/roundtable discussions…they are approaching soon as well.  I am incredibly excited. I want to sit at dinner and share wine with some brilliant film scholar and pick his/her brain.

 

Tomorrow starts another fairly early morning.  We’re heading out to the Bologna fresh street market to pick up some produce for the apartment.

 

I hope I win the Italian lottery. I have already spent a G-UH-RIP of cash and have nothing to show for it other than transportation, food, bottles of water and such.

 

Okay, okay, okay.  Arriverdeci.

 

 

 

 

 

June 21, 2009: Bologna

 

Instead of it being truly Saturday, June 21st, it’s 1pm Sunday June 22nd.  Under the circumstances that between 7 of us, we consumed about 10 giant bottles of wine last night, everyone is still passed out. I figured I’d drag myself out of bed to write about yesterday before it became a blur. Why? Yesterday was one of the most memorable days ever.

 

I worked some on my photo documentary (storyboard basically) of how the graffiti in Bologna creates its voice and twisting that into a narrative. It will be a challenge, but I think one I am up for.

 

Tomorrow starts class at the Cineteca. I can’t wait.

 

So, back to my favorite day ever, in search of a tattoo shop (many of the folks here are considering a tattoo to mark their journey), we ended up at Piazza Maggiore. It happened to be the Summer Solstice festival. I watched clowns, acts of Commedia d’ell Arte, dancers, everything! Thousands of people flooded the streets with faces painted. I was a little more than over stimulated.

 

Mandy and I met this man named Luigi. He was a A Capoera dancer in the festival. Luigi danced brilliantly as a herd of young children played drums to soundtrack his moves. When he took a break we attempted to speak to him. A very heavy language barrier left us to a lot of miming. Adorably, he mimed his heart beating fast, then him pulling it out of his body and getting on his knee to offer it to me. He was incredibly sweet. He resembled a thin, Italian, hugh jackman. Anyways, we followed him around the festival and attempted communication many times before Mandy and I had to journey back to the apartments for dinner. It was sweet though.

 

The pictures for this day do much of the storytelling. A lively Italian day filled with wine, cheese, celebration, and beautiful people. That seems to be the gist of things on a daily basis here.

 

Without the words to express it properly, I want to learn Italian and live in this city forever. Truly. This city is so spiritually aligned with my heart I cannot even begin to interpret it. The history, culture, and spirit connect to me on a deeper level than anything I have experienced in America. Next step, finding out how to do this. I need a shower though…I’ll think in there.

 

Ciao.

 

June 22nd, 2009: Bologna:

 

Whew. Exhausted! I am lying down after a very full day in Bologna. After Winefest 2009 last night, we ended up finally sleeping in later than usual. It was nice to catch up on a little shuteye.

 

After finally coercing ourselves out of comfort, Mandy and I decided to wonder about town. We attempted to go into the McDonalds near the Piazza Maggiore. It was pretty hectic. No spoken English and something on the value meal starts at like 8 EUROS!? And it’s burgers with shaved parmesan and weird unfamiliar items. After a minute or two of panic, we jetted out.

 

We went over to the University district. The University of Bologna is beautiful and the students are fascinating to watch and admire.

 

I have my earphones plugged into my itunes and feel like it’s only appropriate to play a song or two by Andrea Bocelli. Everyone is talking to their boyfriends and girlfriends tonight…Mandy is currently talking to Brian about their snuggling date upon reunion…my boyfriend is Italy! He’s smokin’ hot.

 

Mandy and I ended up getting indescribably lost for hours. We had walked ourselves almost out of Bologna when I mustered up the courage to spit out a couple of Italian words to the locals passing by. We were pointed in the right direction and headed back to meet with everyone for dinner.

 

I had some INCREDIBLE tortellini stuffed with Ricotta and served in a buttery sage sauce.  Oh and of course wine. I am continuously stuffed, but also continuously walking and moving.

 

I want air conditioning or a fan right now. I feel toasty. I also would like the internet. I am writing this entry on my macbook and just saving it in word…ready to post online any day now.

 

I want to bet money that I will end up living here in Bologna…or at least Italy. Somewhere this was in my cards. We fit like a glove. They get me. Atlanta seems to not quite get me.  I liked New York a good bit, but that city didn’t exactly get me either. Definitely a no-go on L.A. And London and I seem to be on different planets. Athens is a friend but not a lover. I’ve spent a good amount of time in different cities and never had a connection like this one yet. It all makes sense now. Tonight we discussed class starting tomorrow and I am actually quite thrilled. I also discussed with Angelo my photo essay on the graffiti being the voice of the city. I think it could be really neat. I have come up with all kinds of ideas while amidst all this creative energy, history, and culture. I am enthralled.

 

Now I plan to work on some Italian, charge up my superfluous amount of electronics, and hopefully sleep before class tomorrow.

 

A tomato in the states will never taste the same again.

 

Ciao!

 

 

 

2 comments:

  1. I love reading about your experiences! Your way of telling stories paints vivid pictures, but more so, your words sink into my senses so that I can feel your experiences and your exhuberance.
    Yay! for BLOGS!

    ReplyDelete
  2. Aw, Jess, this sounds amazing. I wish there was some way I could bend the space/time continuum so that you could live simultaneously in Italy and here in Atlanta. It sounds wonderful. Get those pictures up!

    I miss you!

    ReplyDelete